ARRIBA, ARRIBA... ANDALE ANDALE!
Time to leave America and the next stop is a speakeasy on the Yucatan Peninsula! We are entering Mezcal and Tequila territory, but more and more countries in Central and South America are now producing gin. Hidden in the back of an old taqueria in Merida, you will find a secret door which will lead you into an underground jazz club, co-owned by Roberto Brinkman, who is also the distiller of Katún Gin. Roberto is no stranger to the world of spirits, being a former co-owner of Bruxo Mezcal. His family originated from Merida and when he left Bruxo, he decided to relocate there and together with friends, Augusto, Cristian, Raul and Javier they begin creating a unique and entirely Mexican gin, which would capture the essence of Yucatan and be the first of its kind. Being passionate about Mexican spirits and all things Mexican, visitors to the speakeasy will find that the only spirits available there ,are all made in Mexico - of course, Katún Gin is also served there.
In 2017, after a year of researching, they started producing Katún Gin, operating out of the Conkal Distillery. It includes 17 botanicals in the lineup - amongst which are common ingredients used in traditional local dishes. These include 4 different varieties of chilli from the region, herbs, citrus and spices, which apart from juniper, are all sourced in Yucatan or from other parts of Mexico These are macerated for 10 days and then distilled, rested for a month and then bottled offsite at 42% ,using cenote water. Cenotes are natural sinkholes exposing limestone filtered water lakes or reservoirs and they offer the purest of waters, perfect for making gin. Katún is rich and aromatic, with a little heat to remind you there are habaneros in the botanicals but enough sweetness to finish smooth, with a little tongue tingle! Close your eyes when sipping this and its heady perfume will give you the sense of being in Merida's central market, where a number of the ingredients are sourced. Juniper plays a back seat and allows the other botanicals to step forward and embrace you in silky blanket of Chilli, Citrus and Vanilla - the essence of Yucatan.
There's lots of Mayan symbolism on the beautiful hand drawn label - a label that tells the story of the brand and gin through the botanicals, symbols and legends depicted. A Katún is a 20 year cyclic period in the Mayan calendar, 7200 days, but it also means the end of a period or stone that closes. The main legends on the label, including the cardinal points, are the Dziu, a bird who risked its life to collect seeds, when the cornfields were burned by the God of Fire in order to fertilize the land with ashes; The Sun God, who transformed into a jaguar so he could travel at night through the world of the dead; The Tolok or iguana, seen basking in the Sun all over Yucatan; and The Sacred Ceiba tree - a symbol of the universe. It's beautifully intricate and fitting for such a unique gin.
Roberto's favourite cocktail is a negroni, but the Bees Knees is increasingly popular in his bar - difficult choice - but the gin shines in a G&T!