HOME OF THE G&T
India is another country that has seen huge growth in the craft gin sector with many new gins coming to market. Nao Spirits launched in 2018 with their Greater Than and Hapusa brands, but there are many other gin brands that are also fairly new to market.
Stranger & Sons from Third Eye Distillery followed Nao, then Jaisalmer and many others, some that are yet to reach UK shores:
Samsara - Spaceman & Company
Terai - a grain to glass from Rajasthan
Tickle Gin - from Adinco Distilleries in Goa
Pumori - using Himalayan juniper and produced by Fullarton Distilleries in Goa
GinGin - a single shot hemp gin
Jin Jiji - the first gin to use cashew nuts and distilled in Goa using Himalayan juniper
Many of the new craft gin distilleries are being set up in Goa, which appears to be the hub for craft gin brands. Indian tonic water is following the gin trend too, with many new local brands giving Schweppes a run for their money - eg Sepoy & Co, Bengal Bay, Svami, Jade Forest.
Despite the pandemic causing expansion plans to be halted by many brands, Nao Spirits co-founder Anand Virmani led the company through a $2m fundraising drive last year, which he plans to use to strengthen their position as a market leader in the Indian craft gin sector by expanding into newer markets and building a wider gin-drinking culture in India. Expanding into different states in India is also challenging given they each have their own licencing systems and excise duty structures, some being as much as 300% duty upfront, but the investment is hoped to assist them in launching into 5 new states, as well as more international markets. They have also just released their Juniper Bomb edition of Greater Than which is sure to please juniper lovers, having 3x more juniper than the original version.
Hapusa is the Sanskrit name for juniper and they use Himalayan Juniper and botanicals sourced from all around country, which makes it uniquely Indian. Two of the key botanicals are turmeric and mango, but with the inclusion of botanicals from pine forests and spice farms, this makes for a bold and earthy gin which has a delicately smoked flavour. Although perfect as a sipping gin, it can hold itself really well in cocktails such as a negroni (which the distillers recommend) or even a G&T topped with 15ml of coffee.
Whilst Greater Than pays tribute to the history of gin and is a classic juniper forward gin, Hapusa is all about India .... the country and the people and it screams premium and class. Great care has gone into the creation of both these brands and they came from the realisation that at the time despite there being many Indian themed gins worldwide, there were none produced in India.
I really don't think you can have one without the other in your collection, so I highly recommend you getting both - not just because they are excellent gins, but also for what they stand for. For me personally, knowing how and why a gin came about is hugely important and gives me a connection and understanding about what I'm tasting. There is clear passion in these bottles and an appreciation and pride in what they stand for. I was recommended both and to be honest, they more than exceeded my expectations.
My serve: a bone dry Hapusa martini, waved in the general direction of Italy and with a lemon peel rose.